let's get lost

【幻燈片Slideshow May 2011 Osaka & Kyoto】
對初到京都的外地遊客來說，清水寺與鄰近的二年阪、三年阪，不消說絕對不容錯過。可是對舊地重遊已不只一回的人來講，京都實在還有太多地方值得探訪，細細品味。2011年5月，我們如是決定，由於此趟行程是利用日本史上少見的一場巨大天災之後的促銷方案，旅行的喜悅不免滲入一絲乘人之危的罪惡感。

For anyone who plans a first-time visit to Kyoto, it would be unthinkable not to include the Kiyomizu-dera Temple as well as Ninnen-saka and Sannen-saka nearby in the itinerary. But whoever has come back to this city more than once must know that there are many other spots of interest yet to be explored and appreciated. That’s our line of reasoning in May 2011. As we were taking advantage of a special promotional package launched in the wake of one of the worst natural disasters in Japanese history, a tinge of guilt found its way into our usual joy over another longed-for trip.

常言道，選日不如撞日。到了目的地才發覺我們剛好趕上名列京都三大祭典的葵祭，這是一個由下鴨神社與上賀茂神社於每年5月15日舉行的定期祭典，遊行隊伍穿上據說是千年前的平安朝貴族服飾，由京都御所出發，沿著鴨川前進到下鴨神社與上賀茂神社。當然，慶典的目地早已從最初始的祈求五穀豐收，演化成今日的緬懷過往，提供另一個觀光主題。我們在早上九點半左右，也就是遊行開始前一小時，來到下鴨神社附近，一如預期，人們早已開始各自佔據路旁的戰略位置，眼見初夏的陽光也開始發威，我們當機立斷，選定一個有屋簷遮蔽的角落，加入等待的行列。

Sometimes meticulous planning is no match for a stroke of luck. Not until we had arrived did we realize that we were just in time for the Aoi Matsuri, or Hollyhock Festival, one of the three main annual festivals held in Kyoto. Held by the Shimogamo Shrine and the Kamigamo Shrine every May 15, it features a procession of people dressed in traditional Heian period costumes dating back to some 1,000 years ago. The procession sets out from the Kyoto Imperial Palace and slowly works its way along the Kamogawa River toward the Shimogamo Shrine and the Kamigamo Shrine. Of course, the passage of centuries has seen the purpose of the festival evolving from praying for a big harvest to honoring a legacy, whereas an extra tourist attraction thus emerges. We came to the vicinity of the Shimogamo Shrine at 9:30 am or so, or one hour ahead of the start of the procession. Not surprisingly, people had planted themselves at key strategic positions along the route. Meanwhile, the early summer sun already started to make itself felt. It’s now or never—we rushed to join the waiting crowd at an eaves-sheltered corner.

遊行隊伍終於進入下鴨神社後，我們隨著眾人緩步尾隨，十來分鐘後，好幾股人潮在神社大門前匯集，霎時間我們已然陷入摩肩擦踵之境，難行寸步。又是必須當機立斷的時刻，我們決定走為上策，第二天早上再進神社。去而復返顯然是明智的決定，我們的回報是一個寧靜悠閒的早晨，遊人變的稀稀落落，包括一群由老師們帶領著、讓人看見就得會心一笑的幼稚園小朋友。
After the procession moved into the Shimogamo Shrine, we crept ahead with the crowd that trailed behind slowly. Some 10 minutes later we found ourselves trapped within an even bigger crowd converging at the main entrance to the shrine, with people blocking our way in all directions. Another tough decision to make. We decided to break away and come back again tomorrow morning. The decision proved a wise one. We were rewarded with a quiet, unhurried morning of only a few thinly scattered visitors, including a smile-inspiring group of kindergarten children taken out by teachers for an outdoor respite.

屏風的一齣戲裡說「旅行，是為了遇見心中的風景」，可風景究竟為何物呢? 也許是初夏陽光中耀眼的楓綠，以及儘情舒展的亮紫，自成秩序的石頭與落葉，京都大學長長圍牆前的公車站，或者一隻正在享受日光浴懶得理你的貓。

The Ping-Fong Acting Troupe has this to say in a play: “To travel is to come across the scenery one already has in mind.” But what is precisely that scenery? The dazzling green of maple leaves against the early summer sun, perhaps. A brilliant purple being brought to its fullest glory. Stones and fallen leaves forming an order of their own. A bus stop in front of Kyoto University’s seemingly interminable enclosing wall. Or a sunbathing cat that cannot care less about your gaze.

出門旅行，享受美食理應與享受美景等量其觀。在這個京都的早晨醒來之後，我們信步來到旅館附近的Smart Coffee，重返記憶中曾經有過的美好時光。侍者隨即送上味自慢的厚片鬆餅與法式土司，當然還有咖啡，這，又是值得感恩的一天。
Appeasing the palate and pleasing the eye must matter equally to the modern bourgeois traveler. Waking up to another lovely morning in Kyoto, we walked to Smart Coffee not far from the hotel. It would be a memorable moment revisited. In no time the waitress brought our thick slices of pancake and French toast, both specialties of the place, and of course coffee. No doubt it would be another fine day to be thankful.

咖啡始終是我們行程的一部分，出發前為了在網上或旅遊書中找出有味道的咖啡館，可曰上窮碧落下黃泉，當然，旅途中也常有不經意的偶遇帶來驚喜，無論如何，二者都該算是村上春樹所說的小確幸吧。

Coffee is always part of our journey. A thorough search for interesting cafes, on the Web or in guidebooks, invariably dominates our preparations ahead of departure. Of course, a chance encounter may well turn out a pleasant surprise. Either way, we are grateful for these moments that must qualify as what the Japanese novelist Haruki Murakami calls “tiny but sure happiness.”
京都的夜的確與白天一樣迷人，終於與串燒和冰啤酒再續前緣之後，我們走在越來越熱鬧的人行道上，帶著一股日間餘溫的微風彿過臉頰，別有韻味的各式店家燈籠早已燦燦然開始搶客，並且鬥豔。

Kyoto has a beauty to it both night and day. After having relived my nostalgic memory of grilled skewers washed down with iced beer, we went for a stroll along the sidewalk where flows of pedestrians were expanding visibly. A breeze that seemed to carry the last remnants of the day’s warmth stroked our cheeks. Under the night sky glowing lanterns put out by all varieties of eateries made a colorful addition to city lights, competing for attention and patronage.

我們來到–或者更正確地說路過–大阪是因為我們要去京都，然而日本第二大都市必然仍有不少精彩處有待我們探訪，這點毋庸置疑。

We came to—or to be more precise, passed through—Osaka on our way to Kyoto. But there must be a lot of spots of interest scattered around the second-largest city in Japan. No question about it.

答案顯然是否定的，當我們來到像台中的田樂這樣一個所在，似曾相識的感覺瞬間襲來，彷彿一轉眼空間已然轉換，這裡其實是東京或京都的一個巷弄。


任何透過相機捕捉阿勃勒的嘗試應該都會產生相同的結論，明豔的陽光必不可少，因為到底是炫目的金黃抑或無趣的黯淡，由此定案。

年近半百不再遙遠之後，某些自憐自艾似乎可以比較理直氣壯一些。前人所志所事百無一就之嘆，好像也容易理解得多了。退而求其次，生活角落裏的小喜小樂就足以讓人雀躍，像是廚房窗台上的大岩桐，沈寂數月之後，竟然捲土重來，再現光華，在2011年端午節的晴好早晨，悄然飄進我的相機，彷彿是夢。

彷彿一成不變的山居歲月，卻總有些也許不值得大肆宣揚的小驚喜，像是鄰居小屋屋頂上突然出現這麼一位不速之客。雙方眼神交會之際，或許牠也會狐疑不解，現在是甚麼情形？

自己就是在眷村中長大的，如今侷促在台北市信義區一隅的四四南村似乎因此多了一層淵源。也不過就是幾十年前，在台灣這座小島上的許多角落裡，來自神州大陸各省的志願與非志願軍人，開始與家人作起尋常百姓，畢竟反攻大陸終將搶在解放台灣之前成為一句莫名其妙的政治口號。
歷史緬懷告一段落，何不來一客手工冰淇淋。五月初傍晚的陽光仍然相當亮卻已柔和不少，城市裡迎面而來的微風更增添一絲舒爽，嘴裏則是冰涼適甜的冰淇淋，橘子口味的。
正打算踏上歸途，突然看見一位外籍母親帶著三個孩子在夕陽西斜中戲耍，三個小兄妹都十分活潑，同時輕易讓人覺得憐愛。徵得母親同意之後，我有幸以相機留下這命定而神奇的一刻。

傍晚到山上小學運動（介於經常與偶爾之間）時，總會和幾隻花貓不期而遇，短暫交換眼神之後，彼此遂逕自繼續原先的活動，或坐臥。這天心血來潮，特意背著相機出門，心中想著今天總不至於與往日不同吧。幸好，果然眾貓都在，拍著拍著，有位老師出來餵牠們，同時向我介紹這其實是一家子，其中一隻是母親，每天下午都會帶著子女出來一同曬太陽。

後來才知道，「旅行是為了遇見心中的風景」典出屏風的一齣劇。隔著櫥窗玻璃看到這句話，當下就想，此言果真不假。
即便小學時代就來過赤崁樓，多年後重遊，卻無論如何也無法在自己的記憶中找到些許蛛絲馬跡。”Memories too often die with their owner, and time too often surprises us by running out.” (William Zinsser)
住家附近不但是自行車友經常眷顧的地方，更有堪稱曲徑通幽的山間步道，可是這麼多年來實際踏步前往的次數卻是屈指可數，想想也真該Stop and smell the flowers。

【幻燈片2011年二月雲南之一 Slideshow Feb 2011 Yunnan - 1】
【幻燈片2011年二月雲南之二 Slideshow Feb 2011 Yunnan - 2】
不虛此行，當是一種默契般的共識，對此刻眾多遠道而來，正從山上看台往下遠望著的各方訪客而言—即使大家都是冒著極大的危險，在日出前的黑暗中沿著路況堪憂的山路車行至此。
“It’s worth it” must be a tacit consensus—for visitors who have traveled from afar and are now gazing down from the viewing deck on the hilltop. There’s no understating how dangerous their trip might have been. Driving or taking a ride on a hilly road that might have or have not seen better days in the pre-dawn darkness, that is.

乍然聽見導遊小文點明既定行程中的黃龍溪古鎮就是當年拍攝芙蓉鎮一片的場景，不免有一絲驚喜之感。雖然劉曉慶和姜文在片中演繹出何等故事已不復記憶，這個地方卻早已惦著要來了。匆匆走了一遭，印象還算不錯，畢竟，對散落中國各處無數急於提高知名度的千年古村古鎮而言，如何維持恰到好處的古樸絕非易事。
毫無意外，滅絕師太並不在此。在冷冽的山中靜靜等著我們的，卻是對峨嵋山來說司空見慣的濃霧，若有似無的微雨更加增添一分涼意。雖然整個氛圍與出世沉潛份外契合，光芒萬丈的金頂畢竟因此無緣得見。
說也奇怪，許是有人發功許願奏效，遮住大佛的濃霧倏地褪下大半，雖然為時甚短，卻也足夠攝影者按下幾次快門，值得感恩，特此一記。
佛洛斯特的名詩「未擇之路」(The Road Not Taken)常帶給讀者諸多體會，而人生的魚與熊掌不可得兼當是其中要者。來到樂山瞻仰大佛的旅人亦多半如是，選擇（被安排）泛舟水上遙望，也就無從體會走到佛前就近撫之會是何等光景。